![]() ![]() Cleaning up the model was a breeze too, Pursa's supports seem to come off the model very easily and hardly leave any marks or pits on the model. Using Pursa's auto supports, validating, and fixing missed islands in Chitubox took a shade over 30mins.ĩ hours of printing, and some much-needed sleep, later I was greeted with an excellent print this morning. This is a fairly large model at around 7cm tall and very intricate with all those scales, it would have probably taken 2-3 hours to support it manually. Went back to Chitubox to support the missed islands and set the print running overnight. I wasn't expecting too much while opening it up in Chitubox and slicing it ready to run through the Validator, but I was very pleasantly surprised to see only a handful of missed islands (outside of the usual 1px stuff that validator freaks out about). Took less than a minute to get it installed and running, a few minutes to watch Danny's video again and know what the F I'm doing, then less than 5 mins to orientate the model and get it supported and exported as an STL file. That's when I remembered this post and Danny's video and thought I'd give the auto supports in Pursa Slicer a try. I opened up Chitubox and had a look at the model and thought there's no way I'm gonna get that supported before I need to go to bed. I got back home last night from a few days out of town and was very keen to print out Artisan Guild's Zantaroth Lizard Champion Epic Boss model that dropped while I was away. Initially, I dismissed this post as snake oil and thought people just need to git gud with manual supports! But the video is from a very credible source (Danny from 3d Printed Tabletop), so I watched it and still wasn't 100% convinced. I've had a photon for around 3 months and haven't had an issue with prints failing, I've manually supported my prints and am fairly competent at this process. I'm a little late to the party here but thought I'd add my thoughts. By manually adding supports in ChiTuBox they can be avoided. I would be worried about the damage caused from removing these. I suppose the auto supports could be added in the Prusa slicer then export to ChiTuBox for adding the lights but then it seems like more hassle than just using ChiTuBox.Īnother aspect is that Greg is dead set against it supports that go from the model to the model (not sure why - he didn't elaborate) but the Prusa slicer adds these. Therefore I don't care too much where I put them. These seem to provide the necessary support and they just fall off with no defects on the model at all. I like using a few heavies and then peppering my models with lights (Greg calls them ultra-lights with his settings). The issue I see with the Prusa slicer is that it only seems to have one size of support. So far I have followed 3DPrintingPro's (aka Greg) advice (mentioned in the video) and although it is timing consuming I have a 100% success rate. I've watched the video but I haven't tried it. It hasn't caused me any issues so far, and hasn't had any noticeable effect on print quality or details. and then just connect the islands to the closest whatever-there-is. THAT SAID: Lately I've been getting lazy and when I bring it into the validator, I fix the single pixels automatically. Yes, it's a few steps, but I think it's one of the cleanest ways to do it. Having to re-run the single-pixel fix isn't a big deal. Then run the validator again and check for anything else you may have missed. STL with supports and re-slice in chitubox. Open the Prusa Project that you had saved, and add supports where required. Then look at the resulting file and take a note of the layers that require some more support. Slice it in chitubox and run the validator on the. and one I overlooked explaining fully when I was typing this out. If you're having trouble with failed prints - give it a try! Save to USB drive, move to printer and print as usual. stl file into Chitubox, orientate on the plate if required, then slice. stl file into Prusa Slicer, auto-orientate it, auto support it, adjust supports if necessary, then export as. My print rate is currently at 100% from using auto-orientate and auto-support in the Prusa Slicer software! I was starting to get very disillusined with the resin printing process - so much failure and with each failure, cleaning the vat out and trying to find the problem. That's even after having watched all the usual videos and guides on Youtube! Just wanted to share with the community that I've had my Photon for about 2 months now and have had about a 40% success rate using Chitubox to orientate, support (both manual and auto) and slice my prints. ![]()
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